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Crochet Tapestry

Discover Pinterest’s 10 best ideas and inspiration for Crochet Tapestry. Get inspired and try out new things.

Tapestry Crochet - Water Bottle Carrier / Holder

This is my tapestry crochet water bottle carrier, inspired by the Wayuu Mochila. Tapestry Crochet Water Bottle Carrier / Holder Tapestry Crochet Water Bottle Bag There are 3 parts of construction - the bag bottom, the bag body and the bag strap, each with its own pattern. The bag bottom and body are crocheted in one piece, in single crochet spiral (in the round without joining), starting at the bottom. The strap is crocheted separately and sewn to the finished bag. The Bag Bottom The bag bottom is basically a flat circle. A flat circle is typically made up of 6, 8 or 12 sections. For a 6-section circle, start the circle with 6 stitches and increase 6 stitches evenly every round. If you increase at the same spot every round, you effectively get a hexagon, i.e. a piece with 6 equal sections. Accordingly, if you start with 8 stitches and apply the same formula of increasing 8 stitches evenly every round, you get a octagon. That's the formula for making a flat circle. But you can actually start with any number of stitches as long as it works to make the piece lay flat. Tension, needle size, yarn type and stitch height play a part in this - using too few stitches can cause the piece to curve, forming a dome, while too many can cause puckering. The more yarns carried, the taller the stitches will be, and taller stitches tend to require more stitches. Test and see what works best. There are no rules. To make the shape more circular than angular, don't increase at the same spot every round. Instead, adjust and change/shift the point of increase in each round, so that the increases don't sit directly on top of each other. The diameter of the bag bottom should be slightly bigger than the diameter of its intended bottle, at least 1-2 cm. As the bottom piece curves upward and forms the body piece, the effective diameter shrinks a little. How much allowance to give it depends on how snug you want the fit to be. I tend to go for a looser fit, and have a bag that fits rather than risk one that doesn't, after all the time and effort put in. When you finish the bottom piece, the total number of stitches will be the product of the number of starting stitches and the number of rounds. For example, if you start with 8 stitches and work 12 rounds, you will have 96 stitches in the last round. Depending on the pattern for the bag body, you may need to increase stitches after the last round, to meet the number stitches required for the pattern. I call this round the transitional round. For example, if you have 96 stitches after finishing the bag bottom, and the bag body calls for 104 stitches (for example, 4 repeats of a 26-stitch pattern), increase 8 stitches evenly in the transitional round. I like to start carrying the yarns from round 2. That is, after the magic circle (which is also the first round), I start carrying the yarns. This is so that the stitches' height and fabric thickness are even throughout. The more yarns you carry, the taller the stitches and the thicker the fabric will be. Because the piece is crocheted spirally in the round, color changes may result in color jogs. In some patterns, this can be hidden or masked by making some adjustments to the pattern or choosing a point in the pattern as the start/end of round so that the color change appear intentional. But if the color jog doesn't bother you, it doesn't matter :) My bag bottom is a 9-sided polygon a.k.a. nonagon The Bag Body Crocheting the bag body is virtually a no-brainer. After completing the bag bottom and the transitional round, if required, simply continue working the same number of stitches every round, in single crochet spiral, following the pattern for the bag body, until you reach the desired height for the bag. For me, the one challenge in making the bag body has been adjusting the pattern to minimize color jogs that make the pattern appear "broken". See this. Color jog makes the pattern appear broken I have since learned of ways to work around the problem, though it took me quite a while to wrap my head around them. Even now, I still learn every time I make a piece. Sometimes, I work it out on paper or with software before I start. Other times, I just take a leap of faith and work it out as I go. To finish the body, you can add some decorative rows like shells or picots, or just keep it plain. I added eyelets for drawstring and finished with picots The Bag Strap The bag strap is basically a long, flat rectangle or oblong/oval. In order for the stitches to appear uniform i.e. all same-side stitches appear on one side, I do either of these, depending on the pattern. Crochet a very long oblong/oval. After the foundation chain, continue working down the chain on the opposite side, without turning. In each round, I add 3 or more stitches evenly at each end of the strap. Crochet a very long rectangle. I start with the single crochet foundation stitch chain. The next row and all subsequent rows are crocheted from the same side of the strap. At the end of each row, the yarn is cut. Yes, there is a helluva lot of yarn ends to clean up :( Thin/narrow straps tend to curl and stretch. To minimize curling, I carry yarns along even when color changes are not required. This also helps to make the strap thicker and sturdier. The finished strap is sewn to the top of the bag body. Water bottle holder with strap Making the long bag strap is, by far, the part I enjoy the least in making a tapestry crochet bag. The long foundation chain is a pain to count, and the many pattern repeats agonizingly monotonous. I have yet to find a workable, happy alternative. Many of the beautiful bag straps (of the Wayuu Mochila) that I see on the web are woven using some sort of loom, or braided, e.g. ply-split braiding. These processes seem tedious and time-consuming but they do yield beautiful, sturdy straps. Patterns Despite the multi-color look, only 3 yarns are used at any one time - one working yarn and 2 carried yarns. This is maintained throughout the piece to ensure even thickness. Bag Bottom The bottom is a nonagon, i.e. 9-sided polygon. I start with the magic circle with 9 stitches, and increase 9 stitches evenly every round for 13 rounds - 117 stitches. In the transitional round, I increase 3 stitches evenly, to get 120 stitches. Bag bottom pattern Bag Body Work 10 repeats of the 12-stitch pattern - 120 stitches. Bag body pattern Eyelets I use this buttonhole technique to make the eyelets. It doesn't leave any of the carried yarns exposed, like those that involve making chains and skipping stitches do. All carried yarns are nicely hidden under the single crochets. Crochet buttonhole / eyelet Some Helpful Links: Tapestry Crochet - how to crochet : https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=625 Tapestry Crochet - more techniques and variations : http://www.tapestrycrochet.com/blog/?cat=18 A Wayuu Mochila Tutorial (in Spanish) Part 1 : http://www.ctejidas.co/2015/10/tutorial-18-mochila-wayuu-fucsia-parte.html Part 2 : http://www.ctejidas.co/2015/10/tutorial-19-mochila-wayuu-fucsia-parte.html

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The Sunrise Mini Mountainside Wall Hanging Crochet Pattern - Love & Stitch

Hey Everyone! I’m back with a new wall hanging pattern and this one might look a little familiar. As much as I love the night sky, I swear the sky couldn’t be any prettier than right at dawn. It is such a beautiful part of the day and always gets me right in the feels. So it would only be fitting to design a wall hanging inspired by the gorgeous colors of the sunrise. Remember when I said this wall hanging might look a little familiar? We are going to use the original Mini Mountainside Wall Hanging as a template and move some colors around to create a sunrise color palate. If you want make the original Mini Mountainside Wall Hanging click here! Keep an eye out because I may or may not be planning a sunset, aka “golden hour” version of the Mini Mountainside Wall Hanging too:) And I of course have to pay respect to the wall hanging that inspired it all, The Mountainside Wall Hanging (which I may or may not also be playing around with because I’m obsessed and I can’t help myself, lol). To purchase the large Mountainside Wall Hanging pattern click here! Happy Crocheting! This post contains affiliate links that support the content on LoveandStitchDesign.com. Each affiliate link has a * beside it. All opinions are my own. Find more information about affiliate links, as well as my Privacy & Disclosures Policy here. Thank you for your support! Pin it for Later Interested in the pattern and want to save it for later? You can use my Pinterest pin link by clicking here or the image below! You can purchase the inexpensive Printable PDF on Etsy here! The PDF includes the complete step-by-step pattern so you can follow along on paper, highlighting and making notes as needed. It is a total of 9 pages, including the front and back cover pages. I’ve also included a PDF download of the chart for this pattern. Materials *5.00 Crochet Hook Weight 4 Worsted Weight Yarn (yarn I used listed below) Dowel Rod or Tree Branch *Yarn Needle *Scissors Yarn Choice For most of my wall hanging patterns I prefer to use a thicker and tighter spun worsted weight yarn. I feel like it gives a lot more definition to the piece and details tend to stand out more. I really don’t focus too much on the texture of the yarn because I steam every single one of my wall hangings, which softens the piece and makes it more flexible and flowy. This is especially helpful for tighter crocheters. The brands I tend to gravitate the most towards are Red Heart Super Saver, Caron One Pound and Loops & Threads Impeccable. For this wall hanging I used the following yarn: Red Heart Super Saver in Black Loops & Threads Impeccable in Plum Craftsmart Value (Michael’s) in Ginger Loops & Threads Impeccable in Gold Red Heart Super Saver in Cafe’ Latte Red Heart Super Saver in Buff Big Twist Value (Joann’s) in Chocolate Loops & Threads Impeccable in Soft Taupe Red Heart Super Saver in Aran Loops & Threads Impeccable in Amethyst Stitch Key (US Terms) Ch = Chain St/sts = Stitch(es) Sc = Single Crochet Color Abbreviations B = Black PL= Plum G = Ginger GO = Gold CL = Cafe’ Latte BF = Buff CH = Chocolate ST = Soft Taupe AR = Aran A = Amethyst Special Notes -The wall hanging is worked in rows. -The wall hanging is worked from the bottom up. -The 1st st of each row should be placed into the same stitch as the turning chain. -The turning chain does not count as the 1st stitch of the row. -The wall hanging is worked in single crochet. -The pattern is written as: # of single crochet stitches (color abbreviation), example: 8(A) means 8 sc in the color Aran. -This wall hanging is worked up using the cut and tie color changing method. Dimensions: 11.5 inches wide x 13.5 inches long (not including fringe) Gauge: 15 sts x 18 rows = 4 inch square worked in single crochet. To learn how to do a seamless color change click here! Pattern I have created a chart for this pattern for those who prefer to follow a chart instead of a written pattern. The PDF version of the chart is included in the pattern purchase in my Etsy Shop. Here is the free online version for you to use. CH 45 in Black Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 2 – Row 7: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 8: 18 (B), 2 (PL), 24 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 9: 23 (B), 5 (PL), 16 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 10: 15 (B), 7 (PL), 22 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 11: 24 (B), 3 (PL), 17 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 12: 16 (B), 5 (PL), 10 (B), 2 (PL), 11 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 13: 10 (B), 4 (PL), 8 (B), 5 (G), 2 (PL), 4 (B), 1 (PL), 10 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 14: 8 (B), 4 (PL), 2 (B), 6 (PL), 3 (G), 6 (B), 6 (PL), 9 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 15: 8 (B), 4 (PL), 1 (G), 10 (B), 5 (G), 6 (B), 1 (G), 1 (PL), 8 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 16: 7 (B), 4 (G), 4 (B), 7 (G), 8 (B), 4 (G), 10 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 17: 9 (B), 6 (G), 6 (B), 6 (GO), 3 (G), 2 (B), 6 (G), 6 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 18: 5 (B), 7 (G), 3 (B), 5 (G), 4 (GO), 4 (B), 5 (GO), 3 (G), 4 (B), 3 (G), 1 (B). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 19: 5 (G), 2 (B), 6 (G), 1 (GO), 8 (B), 8 (GO), 1 (B), 4 (GO), 2 (G), 6 (B), 1 (GO) Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 20: 2 (GO), 4 (B), 7 (GO), 1 (B), 9 (GO), 6 (B), 6 (GO), 6 (B), 3 (GO). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 21: 4 (GO), 4 (B), 8 (GO), 4 (B), 19 (GO), 2 (B), 3 (GO). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 22: 2 (CL), 3 (B), 2 (CL), 6 (BF), 12 (CL), 2 (B), 10 (CL), 2 (B), 5 (CL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 23: 5 (CL), 3 (B), 7 (CL), 6 (B), 9 (CL), 8 (BF), 2 (CL), 1 (B), 3 (CL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 24: 3 (CL), 1 (B), 1 (CL), 11 (BF), 8 (CL), 4 (B), 9 (CL), 1 (B), 6 (CL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 25: 1 (BF), 5 (CL), 1 (B), 10 (CL), 2 (B), 8 (CL), 6 (BF), 1 (CH), 7 (BF), 3 (CL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 26: 8 (BF), 5 (CH), 6 (BF), 5 (CL), 3 (B), 15 (CL), 2 (BF). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 27: 5 (BF), 13 (CL), 1 (B), 5 (CL), 5 (BF), 9 (CH), 6 (BF). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 28: 4 (BF), 10 (CH), 3 (ST), 5 (BF), 3 (CL), 1 (B), 14 (CL), 4 (BF). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 29: 4 (BF), 17 (CL), 5 (BF), 1 (AR), 4 (ST), 10 (CH), 3 (BF). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 30: 1 (BF), 11 (CH), 3 (ST), 5 (AR), 4 (BF), 15 (CL), 5 (BF). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 31: 12 (BF), 7 (CL), 4 (BF), 8 (AR), 3 (ST), 10 (CH). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 32: 9 (CH), 6 (ST), 7 (AR), 2 (ST), 2 (BF), 8 (CL), 10 (BF). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 33: 9 (BF), 8 (CL), 2 (BF), 3 (GO), 4 (ST), 4 (AR), 7 (ST), 7 (CH). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 34: 6 (CH), 14 (ST), 7 (GO), 9 (CL), 7 (BF), 1 (GO). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 35: 2 (GO), 6 (BF), 7 (CL), 11 (GO), 4 (ST), 14 (CH). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 36: 1 (GO), 11 (CH), 5 (ST), 13 (GO), 7 (CL), 4 (BF), 3 (GO). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 37: 4 (GO), 2 (BF), 7 (CL), 16 (GO), 4 (ST), 8 (CH), 3 (GO). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 38: 4 (GO), 6 (CH), 3 (ST), 20 (GO), 6 (CL), 5 (GO). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 39: 7 (GO), 3 (CL), 4 (G), 18 (GO), 3 (ST), 3 (CH), 6 (GO). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 40: 7 (GO), 1 (CH), 2 (ST), 9 (GO), 21 (G), 4 (GO). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 41: 6 (GO), 15 (G), 23 (GO). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 42: 6 (G), 9 (GO), 29 (G). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 43: 7 (G), 4 (AR), 33 (G). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 44: 31 (G), 8 (AR), 5 (G). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 45: 4 (G), 10 (AR), 20 (G), 1 (AR), 9 (G). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 46: 30 (G), 10 (AR), 4 (G). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 47: 2 (PL), 29 (A), 6 (PL), 7 (G). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 48: 2 (PL), 8 (G), 7 (PL), 15 (A), 9 (AR), 3 (PL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 49: 3 (PL), 12 (AR), 10 (A), 15 (PL), 1 (AR), 3 (PL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 50 : 21 (PL), 7 (A), 1 (PL), 12 (AR), 3 (PL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 51: 4 (PL), 10 (AR), 4 (PL), 4 (A), 4 (PL), 1 (AR), 17 (PL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 52: 30 (PL), 10 (AR), 4 (PL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 53: 5 (PL), 8 (AR), 22 (PL), 1 (AR), 8 (PL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 54: 8 (PL), 1 (AR), 5 (PL), 6 (A), 13 (PL), 4 (AR), 7 (PL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 55: 2 (PL), 1 (AR), 11 (PL), 3 (A), 1 (AR), 8 (A), 8 (PL), 3 (AR), 4 (PL), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 56: 5 (A), 7 (AR), 26 (A), 6 (PL). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 57: 2 (A), 7 (PL), 16 (A), 1 (AR), 8 (A), 3 (AR), 7 (A). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 58: 8 (A), 1 (AR), 35 (A). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 59: 6 (A), 1 (AR), 28 (A), 1 (AR), 6 (A), 1 (AR), 1 (A). Ch 1, turn. (44) Row 60 – Row 61: 44 (A). Ch 1, turn. (44) Fasten off after Row 61 leaving at least a 3 foot tail. Attaching the Fringe To create the fringe, cut 12 inch pieces of yarn in Black. You will need 3 strands to complete 1 fringe. To attach the fringe, grab 3 strands of yarn. Use a larger crochet hook and push the hook through the far left foundation chain on the bottom of the piece. Fold the 3 strands in half and loop the middle of the strands onto the crochet hook and pull the loop of strands through the foundation chain about 2 inches. Fold the strands through the loop. Tighten to create the fringe. Repeat for every other foundation chain. Trim the fringe to your preferred length. Hanging the Project To attach the project to the dowel or tree branch; using a yarn needle, weave the tail over the dowel/branch and back under into the 1st stitch on top of the wall hanging. Repeat for each stitch on top of the wall hanging. Knot off and weave in your ends. To hang the project, drill 2 small holes on either side of the piece. Thread through both holes with cotton yarn and knot off both ends. Trim excess yarn. (feel free to use your preferred method of hanging the project) Enjoy! For more crochet wall hanging patterns click here!

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